Sample the flavours of Shekhawat at this new South Bangalore spot
Bangalore born serial entrepreneur Sidarth Goenka’s restaurant serves the food he grew up with—vegetarian fare from his ancestral town in Rajasthan—Shekhawati. Plus, elements that he remembers from childhood holidays spent at his family’s 100-year-old haveli. “I wanted to put together our family cook’s dishes and serve up a bit of the fine art and architecture that came with havelis,” he begins, introducing us to the 25 odd dishes in the line-up for the day.
Kesariya—his brand new restaurant in JP Nagar, has all the trappings one would expect from the desert state—genuine antique columns, ornate jharokhas, intricate paintings and importantly, gleaming silvered thalis that make for an inviting first impression.
Goenka himself is all over the place, making sure customers are comfortable and the flow of the elaborate meal carries on uninterrupted. So it’s best to sit back, let the efficient waitstaff take over and remember to pace yourself. Goenka explains that ‘saffron, dry fruits, jaggery, ghee, milk products, bajra, millet, almonds and pistachios are liberally used.’
The result, as we discovered is non- spicy, subtle, layered flavours artfully presented. Start with tiny samosas, kachoris and little fried savouries with different dipping chutneys, and dig into a delicious jalebi sandwich on the side, that I was hoping to enjoy as dessert.
The dal bati churma flags off the mains—bati a deep fried ball of atta, glazed with ghee—is dunked in a serving of spicy dal balanced with churma, a crumbled sweet loaded with dry fruits and thickened milk (khoya). A pile of grain healthy rotis, follows to mop up the different curries and veggies. Try the bajre ki kheech (millet khichdi) with the raabdi kadi, a light gravy made with millet flour and sugar. Leave room for the excellent sweets, another Shekhawat special sure to send you into a food coma.
Rs. 445 upwards per person. Details: 26590800
— Jackie Pinto