With a special line for the Chennai summer, Sanjay Garg talks about the shades that rule his drapes.
Last evening, Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango brought us the vivaciousness of the banjaras, with an exclusive fashion show at the Vivanta by Taj – Connemara, inspired by Rajasthan’s nomadic tribe. His very first in Chennai, it marked the launch of the Delhi-based designer’s signature line, which has been two years in the making. Creating the range of occasion wear—from tunics and quilted jackets to saris and shararas, in silk, brocade and tissue—has been challenging, he says, because of the Varanasi kadwa brocade technique. “Weavers don’t do brocade panels anymore; just setting up the loom takes two months,” Garg explains, adding that he did a lot of research to source and revive the patterns and techniques. “We’ve simplified the silhouettes, with looser cuts, and kept the colours almost monochrome, with very little contrast.”
Blush pink and indigo blue: According to Garg, the colour palette is rich but non-traditional. Like blush pink. “I’ve teamed it with indigo blue, in one of my favourite pieces, a shikar ka lehenga. The shikargah is a 150-year-old design that I’ve revived, with patterns of parrots, deer and tigers. It looks like a Mughal jaal,” he says.
Gold and emerald green: Emerald green is one of Garg’s favourite colours, and this time, he’s used it with the gold of Varanasi tissue. “Traditionally, the tissue is stiff. But I got it made to be more supple, like fluid gold. One of the motifs I’ve used is a beautiful deer and a mango tree, which is inspired by a Mughal miniature painting,” he says.
Off-white: The designer has also done a special line for Chennai—in chanderi and organza, keeping our sultry summers in mind. “This will be all in off-white with gold, with a lot of sheer jackets and tunics. One of the motifs is a beautiful jasmine flower, done in white.”
Rs 4,500 to Rs 2,25,000. View the collection from April 22-24 at The Folly, Amethyst.
—Surya Praphulla Kumar