M aalGaadi in Besant Nagar promises to inject some summer quirk into our wardrobes. Their Yellow Submarine Pop Up show sees 12 Lakme Fashion Week designers with off-the-runway collections. “We’ve hand-picked people who’ll go with the sensibility of the store (fashion with an edge) and the city,” says Shahin Ansari, founder-partner, drawing our attention to inspired detailing and season-friendly fabrics. Expect labels like Ka Sha, Valliyan and Reboot by Anuj, among others. From May 16-18. Rs 5,000 onwards. Details: 42103242
This seven-month-old Delhi brand has already been spotted on stars like Anushka Sharma and Alia Bhatt. Marked by a strong hipster vibe, Kanika Goyal Label’s outfits are angular, tailored and architectural. “The fall collection I am bringing down is inspired by iconic photographer Balthazar Korab, who specialised in architecture. So expect a lot of colour blocking, like ox blood against beige or charcoal,” says Goyal, who studied at NIFT Delhi (“that’s where my minimalist, geometric sensibility comes from”) before enrolling at New York’s Parsons School for Design. Expect a multicolour palette, pencil skirts and slim pants in cottons, polyesters and silks. Signature: The ‘Turnt Up’ top with intricate beading from the summer line.
The Kolkata gal nailed her first solo show at LFW with her off-beat jewellery. Titled Yagyaseni, it drew inspiration from the inner warrior in everyone. “I went with the concept of making jewellery for different parts of the body,” says Mantri, who had designed a collection for the film, Fashion. “You will find body chains, hand harnesses, ear cuffs and metal meshes, constructed like a warrior’s shield,” she elaborates. Using mixed metal—copper, brass and silver, with a dull gold finish—the designer with a degree from New York’s Gemological Institute of America, has also used pearls (“to depict the feminine side”), kundan
(“to give it a royal touch”) and raw pyrite stones to give it contrast. Signature: Any of the understated rock necklaces
A Paris flat abandoned since World War II and discovered in 2013, forms the inspiration behind the 29-year-old’s new summer collection, The Apartment. “When it was opened, they found everything left undisturbed. I’ve tried to recreate that lifestyle in my line,” says Rao, who will be bringing down both her exclusive label Archana Rao and the more affordable Frou Frou. With western silhouettes, expect a lot of sheers, floral prints, embroidery and pearl detailing. “My interpretation of what was found—vintage furniture, clothing—is incorporated in cut-work sleeves and prints on collars,” explains the designer, who has stints at NIFT Hyderabad and Parson’s in her resume. Signature: White shirt with pearl detailing and and cut-work sleeves.
Titled Live and Let Fly, Sarkar’s collection is an Indo-Japanese fusion. “I’ve used Indian weaves like jamdani—in khadi, cotton and mul—along with techniques like block printing on shibori-dyed fabrics. Adding a touch of quirk is the Kokeshi doll motif. In Japan, they were created as symbols for mothers whose children fell prey to infanticide,” explains the 38-year-old NIFT Kolkata graduate. Sarkar, who feels the hour-glass look is no longer in trend, is bringing down long shirts, straight pants and asymmetrical wraparounds in earthy colours. Signature: A straight, woven shirt with Kokeshi doll print.
Mumbai’s brand Karleo—by Karan Berry and Leon Vaz—has looked to whole spices for inspiration. “We adapted the colours of the spices—from paprika red to a deep rye maroon-black—and incorporated its shapes in the embroidery,” says Berry. The evening wear line has relaxed, western silhouettes, and contrast has been brought in through the embellishments. “We’ve used gemstone-inspired beading and embroidery, a lot of hand painting and detailing with frosted crystals,” he adds. Expect gowns, dresses, trousers and skirts—in crepe de chine, tulle and chiffon. And for those who don’t want to pick up clothes, they have a range of head accessories, too. Signature: The hand-painted jumpsuit in bayleaf green.
History student Sancheti says her love of weaves and culture is reflected in her six-year-old label, Pinnacle. The latest line, Nomadistaan, is a nod to the vibrant Thar region and today’s young breed of beatniks. “To celebrate the urban banjaaran, I’ve used tie-and-dye techniques and heer bharat embroidery—with a luxuriant touch,” says the designer. With palazzo pants, asymmetrical kurtas and jackets —in yellow, marsala and indigo —her line stresses on sustainability. Signature: The zipper kurta with block print pants (seen on Anushka Sharma at a Bombay Velvet promo).
—Surya Praphulla Kumar