M aalGaadi in Besant Nagar promises to inject some summer quirk into our wardrobes. Their Yellow Submarine Pop Up show sees 12 Lakme Fashion Week designers with off-the-runway collections. a�?We’ve hand-picked people who’ll go with the sensibility of the store (fashion with an edge) and the city,a�? says Shahin Ansari, founder-partner, drawing our attention to inspired detailing and season-friendly fabrics. Expect labels like Ka Sha, Valliyan and Reboot by Anuj, among others. From May 16-18. Rs 5,000 onwards. Details: 42103242
This seven-month-old Delhi brand has already been spotted on stars like Anushka Sharma and Alia Bhatt. Marked by a strong hipster vibe, Kanika Goyal Labela��s outfits are angular, tailored and architectural. a�?The fall collection I am bringing down is inspired by iconic photographer Balthazar Korab, who specialised in architecture. So expect a lot of colour blocking, like ox blood against beige or charcoal,a�? says Goyal, who studied at NIFT Delhi (a�?thata��s where my minimalist, geometric sensibility comes froma�?) before enrolling at New Yorka��s Parsons School for Design. Expect a multicolour palette, pencil skirts and slim pants in cottons, polyesters and silks. Signature: The a�?Turnt Upa�� top with intricate beading from the summer line.
Vasundhara A� Mantri
The Kolkata gal nailed her first solo show at LFW with her off-beat jewellery. Titled Yagyaseni, it drew inspiration from the inner warrior in everyone. a�?I went with the concept of making jewellery for different parts of the body,a�? says Mantri, who had designed a collection for the film, Fashion. a�?You will find body chains, hand harnesses, ear cuffs and metal meshes, constructed like a warrior’s shield,a�? she elaborates. Using mixed metala��copper, brass and silver, with a dull gold finisha��the designer with a degree from New Yorka��s Gemological Institute of America, has also used pearls (a�?to depict the feminine sidea�?), kundan
(a�?to give it a royal toucha�?) and raw pyrite stones to give it contrast. Signature: Any of the understated rock necklaces
A Paris flat abandoned since World War II and discovered in 2013, forms the inspiration behind the 29-year-olda��s new summer collection, The Apartment. a�?When it was opened, they found everything left undisturbed. Ia��ve tried to recreate that lifestyle in my line,a�? says Rao, who will be bringing down both her exclusive label Archana Rao and the more affordable Frou Frou. With western silhouettes, expect a lot of sheers, floral prints, embroidery and pearl detailing. a�?My interpretation of what was founda��vintage furniture, clothinga��is incorporated in cut-work sleeves and prints on collars,a�? explains the designer, who has stints at NIFT Hyderabad and Parson’s in her resume. Signature: White shirt with pearl detailing and and cut-work sleeves.
Titled Live and Let Fly, Sarkara��s collection is an Indo-Japanese fusion. a�?Ia��ve used Indian weaves like jamdania��in khadi, cotton and mula��along with techniques like block printing on shibori-dyed fabrics. Adding a touch of quirk is the Kokeshi doll motif. In Japan, they were created as symbols for mothers whose children fell prey to infanticide,a�? explains the 38-year-old NIFT Kolkata graduate. Sarkar, who feels the hour-glass look is no longer in trend, is bringing down long shirts, straight pants and asymmetrical wraparounds in earthy colours. Signature: A straight, woven shirt with Kokeshi doll print.
Mumbaia��s brand Karleoa��by Karan Berry and Leon Vaza��has looked to whole spices for inspiration. a�?We adapted the colours of the spicesa��from paprika red to a deep rye maroon-blacka��and incorporated its shapes in the embroidery,a�? says Berry. The evening wear line has relaxed, western silhouettes, and contrast has been brought in through the embellishments. a�?Wea��ve used gemstone-inspired beading and embroidery, a lot of hand painting and detailing with frosted crystals,a�? he adds. Expect gowns, dresses, trousers and skirtsa��in crepe de chine, tulle and chiffon. And for those who dona��t want to pick up clothes, they have a range of head accessories, too. Signature: The hand-painted jumpsuit in bayleaf green.
History student Sancheti says her love of weaves and culture is reflected in her six-year-old label, Pinnacle. The latest line, Nomadistaan, is a nod to the vibrant Thar region and todaya��s young breed of beatniks. a�?To celebrate the urban banjaaran, Ia��ve used tie-and-dye techniques and heer bharat embroiderya��with a luxuriant touch,a�? says the designer. With palazzo pants, asymmetrical kurtas and jackets a��in yellow, marsala and indigo a��her line stresses on sustainability. Signature: The zipper kurta with block print pants (seen on Anushka Sharma at a Bombay Velvet promo).
a��Surya Praphulla Kumar