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    Hamsa brings fine desi flavours from across the country.

    AFTER dedicating most of his life to his family’s silver jewellery business (Sukra Jewellery), Nithin Kalkiraju forays into hospitality with Hamsa. Situated at Gandhi Nagar, the 48-seater vegetarian restaurant offers a carefully curated array of North Indian and South Indian delicacies. We find 108 handmade bronze bells at the entrance, along with walls with alternating brass panels and beige sandstone jaalis (windows). Prepare to be awed by the intricate pink sandstone pillars inspired by the Fatehpur Sikri palace and furniture inspired by the Nagarathar Chettiars. A fine silver bowl awaits with a saffron modak to start our meal for the evening. Kalkiraju, 29, who travels extensively, offers a long line of starters and I am impressed by the melting paneer saunfiya and the crisp cheese kurkuris. The wait for our mains is spent sipping on refreshing glasses of sweet and spicy strawberry chilli sherbet and the traditional thandai loaded with the richness of almonds. The hot idiyappam biriyani that’s best had with their vellai kolambu (boiled vegetables in thick coconut-cashew curry) is worth the wait. The mave ki paratha from their Delhi-inspired parathewale galli menu, with its sweet aftertaste is complemented with the kamal kakdi kofteh(lotus stem dumpling in  tomato gravy). Desserts include a gulab jamun brulee and the anjeer aur adrak ka halwa, a jammy delight  topped with slivers of almond.
    Rs 1,800 for two, Details: 30637519

    — Lavanya Lakshminarayanan

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