a few top designers
The winter festive edition of the Lakme Fashion Week this year sees quite a few noteworthy developments, from Manish Malhotra foraying into menswear to a special show by Ritu Kumar dedicated to the revival of Benarasi weaves. We
take a look at what some of the country’s most celebrated
designers have in store. Text: Rashmi Rajagopal
Designer Masaba Gupta, known for her outrageously quirky prints, employs brush stroke prints inspired by art in her collection for the winter festive season to be showcased next week. Apart from bold brush strokes, the print story also includes watercolour splatters and chalk sketches in a classic colour palette of red, white and black, with flowy silhouettes that spell ease and elegance.
Taking her inspiration from legendary French fashion model, Brigitte Bardot, Monisha Jaising’s Riviera is sure to create a buzz at the fashion week. Combining the oomph and elegance of one of the earliest sex symbols with the charm and glamour of the French Riviera, the collection is reminiscent of the early 60s and boasts a mix of Indian and Western ensembles. “It’s all about modernising Riviera Fashion from the 60s and 70s,” explains Jaising. “I am a bling fan and I am really excited that metallic has become a macro trend in Autumn and Winter, and it will continue into Spring and Summer 2016,” she forecasts.
Turning to the city of Shiraz in Iran for inspiration, Tahiliani’s collection will see a lot of mosaics and kilim influences. Rust, olive and blue make up the colour scheme and garments include kaftans, tunics and shift dresses. The sari too gets a makeover with a jumpsuit silhouette, pleats and draped dupatta. “We’ve toned down the palette for fall with easy silhouettes that allow a more easy draped soho style – with the addition of capes and capelets, jumpsuit saris and all the other offerings for both men and women,” Tahiliani shares.
Known for her sleek silhouettes and futuristic designs, designer Namrata Joshipura teams up with Lakme Insta Light, a new face cream, for her show entitled Insta Light at the Lakme Fashion Week to be held at Palladium, Mumbai. In the middle of a crazy work day juggling fittings and meetings, Joshipura shares that the theme for the collection is iridescence, which makes for an apt festive mood board. “I didn’t have to come up with a theme myself and worked with what the product stands for, so that was easy,” she says, but from the looks of it, that’s the only thing about the collection that was simple.
Using a colour palette largely of icy blue, grey, white and lots of shimmer, she reveals that the garments have been fashioned with an interesting line up of fabrics, which she developed herself. “It was very challenging but I thoroughly enjoyed coming up with this line,” she shares, citing the example of a particular textile made with woven ribbons.
A striking feature is her use of holographic-like effects with sequins and other embellishments, apart from galactic and bokeh prints that make for a contemporary look. “There’s a lot of surface ornamentation, techniques, embellishments and original prints that have gone into many of the pieces, which will definitely make this collection stand out. On the whole, it’s urban, glamorous and chic, which is essentially the DNA of our brand,” she explains. Silhouettes, in keeping with the prints and ornamentation are also modern and include culottes, jumpsuits and dresses. The ‘space’ theme will also be reflected on the runway with the stage and accompanying music being sci-fi.
After the fashion week, Joshipura’s focus will shift to her new store which is set to launch in Kolkata next month. “That is something we are really excited about and we’re hoping it all comes together smoothly,” she signs off.
Making his foray into menswear for the very first time, Manish Malhotra marks his 25th year in fashion with The Gentleman’s Club — a collection that is a fusion of Indian and Western couture with emerald green being the dominating shade, punctuated with embroidered botanical motifs in contrasting colours. The line-up of garments include capes, bandhgalas, jackets, and trousers with luxurious velvet used sparingly for added effect.