The Raintree is the latest to join the molecular gastronomy club.
DEEPAK Dangde is a man on a mission. No sooner did he join The Raintree, Anna Salai, as the executive chef this May than he introduced a new dinner menu at Above Sea Level. Those who know Dangde will tell you that culinary innovation is one of his fortes. “During my early days in Mumbai, I observed and explored the dishes made at the dhabas there. Their ability to innovate with simple street ingredients was admirable,” he shares. He first impressed patrons at Westin and Sofitel in 2010, where he prepared fruit caviars (watermelon and apple) and nitro sushi, respectively. “I treated pureed sushi rice with liquid nitrogen and served it with slices of pickled vegetables and noodles, ” he reminisces.
Apart from molecular gastronomy offerings (his take on South Indian dishes), The Raintree’s new menu (Dangde calls it a progressive menu, with scope for more techniques to be included, like cryogenic cooking) also has Indian, Western, Mediterranean and Italian cuisines—Dangde’s comfort zones. Even as you try to make sense of how the podi idli with sambhar foam is prepared, the yogurt papdi mint foam will pique your interest. But then, don’t too many questions spoil the broth? Hence, we move on and check out some of his other speciality dishes to gauge the variety. There’s a palak cream cheese kebab, a karari broccoli with mango dip, and a Bengaluru-styled tenderloin steak with potato shots and asparagus, among others. Try his desserts like caviar jalebi with rabdi and tabak jamun, too.
Rs 2,000 for two. Details: 24304050
— Karan Pillai