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Ananya Malhotra has designs on your mind, body and spirit with a little help from rubies and tourmalines

_MG_9041ANANYA MALHOTRA is making good on her promise. When we spoke a couple of years ago, she had graduated from Central Saint Martins in London, was completing a course at GIA and confided she was working towards launching something of her own soon. That time has come, for the designer is ready to show off Naya, her line of fine jewellery inspired by the Chakras, at Evoluzione today. As she hails from a family known for its aesthetic sensibilities (Ananya’s mother, Tina, runs the multi-designer boutique Evoluzione in Chennai, Delhi and Bengaluru, her father is a leading apparel manufacturer and her uncle happens to be the famous Delhi-based designer, Rohit Gandhi), expectations are predictably high. But Ananya, 24, has prudently chosen metaphysical jewellery to make her debut, a concept popular with New Age clients.
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Ananya’s belief in the power of gemstones was possibly inherited from her grandparents,  and she explains how she attended a healing stones workshop with them last year. “They gave me The Crystal Bible and I knew then what I wanted to do. Jewellery has always played the role of a talisman, with energies that mean different things to different people. We have forgotten its original purpose and I hope to revive it,” she says. Working with red rubies, pink tourmalines, tanzanites, black diamonds and pearls, her holistic approach with Naya aims for a contemporary synthesis of heirloom pieces and modern design. The concept of chakras or what is believed to be the centres of energy in our body, binds her two collections—Celestial Lotus and Synergies. The first has pink accents and geometric forms (a lotus fashioned into a hexagon is one example), while the second is fluid yet monochromatic. There is a hint of playfulness, with double-sided earrings and bright sculptural rings, all in 18-carat gold.
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Citing various influences—a Bauhaus project while in London, an apprenticeship with Jaipur-based jewellery house, Amrapali, and the jewellery world’s best kept secret, Viren Bhagat—she says she wants to bridge the gap between fine and fashion jewellery. “London-based Solange Azagury-Partridge (former creative director of Boucheron) is someone whose work I relate to. Her quirky style is very inspirational,” she insists, having showcased at Victoria & Albert in London. Everything, from her first diamond hoops as a child to her mother’s Amrapali kundan necklace to retrospectives at Boucheron, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels has shaped this journey, she reveals. What we’ve seen of her luscious pearl and ruby creations indicates she is on the right track. So Tina and Atul, you have good reason to break out the bubbly.
Priced from Rs 90,000 onwards. At Evoluzione today and tomorrow.  Details: 28333627

—Rosella Stephen

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