Home Bangalore A night at the circus

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    page9hIt WOULD appear that the tasting menu is gradually taking over the local dining scene. Not in a simple three-course prix-fixe fashion that is usually a way for the kitchen to save time and move products. But through a parade of dishes that showcase the true talent, and range, of a chef. In this case, the young Italian Matteo Boglione who helms the destination restaurant Le Cirque and adroitly relieves you of the burden of decision making with a four-course degustation menu that we happily sampled.
    Starting up
    The meal begins with deliciously tiny amuse bouche that set the stage for the food opera to follow. A delicate white asparagus soup enriched with creamy burrata, poached lobster and caviar gently awakens our tastebuds before pecorino creme brulle, a savoury custard infused with pecorino cheese beneath a sugary crust, served with red-onion jam and a slim slice of foie gras, simply sauteed arrive. Combined with the crisp satiny wine (Meerlust Stollenbosch Chardonnay), each bite is an essay on richness that lingers through the meal. The next course, silky chopped Akami tuna with just a touch of seasoning and herbs, carries the pleasing freshness of an early summer dish.
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    Naturally, pastas are Bogliones forte but the homemade hand-rolled squid ink special with crab ragout and seared scallop, is quite superb and so fresh you can almost taste the sea. Boglione keeps his portions sensible so you are not stuffed to capacity even before the mains arrive—in this case, a toss-up between tender lamb loin with artichokes and a luxurious layering of sea salt-baked king prawn with shrimp reduction and truffle mashed potato. It’s hard not to rave about his creations, the skillful techniques that underpin them all and the elegance of concept and flavour as you make mental notes to return for a replay. Subtle sweet and savoury notes also surface in the desserts—impossibly thin eggplant wafers surrounding a white chocolate mousse with a hazelnut – pistachio crunch and the reappearance of a traditional French Creme Brulee.
    At The Leela Palace, HAL Airport Road.`4,500++per head.
    —Jackie Pinto

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