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    A special menu at The Park approaches popular dishes two-ways, and we find the experiment worth a try.

    Six ‘O’ One at The Park has a long tradition of setting very high culinary standards in the city, so when an invitation promises Culinary Drama and Food Evolution, it does create a burden of expectation. The architect is senior sous chef Saravanan and he talks about looking at popular dishes two ways: the classical and the modern reinvention. And that’s it. Everything two ways.

    Hail Ceasar
    The drama starts with a Caesar Salad and the traditional version is, well, a Caesar. Low on croutons, but a Caesar. The new avatar has an anchovy crouton, dressing in spheres, crisps, bacon dust and a healthy wallop of liquid nitrogen to freeze the lettuce. Beautifully presented with oodles of flavour, but we like our bacon to look like bacon. None of this newfangled dust. Round one to the classics.
    Next comes a Lobster Bisque and this French classic is among the best we have tasted, but it pales in comparison with its contemporary coffee-flavoured doppelganger, served in a cappuccino cup with foam. You can almost smell the coffee and it tastes divine. The bisque is accompanied by baby lobster on a biscotti. The sheer genius of this dish brings the scores level.

    Getting it right
    Serving veal in India is fraught with risk, so the main course is Lamb Ossobuco. The traditional Milanese side of the plate is superb, with meat falling off the bone, creamy mashed potatoes and a wonderfully rich sauce. The 2016 version comprised a pair of beautifully cooked lamb chops with gremolata and risotto. Nice, but let down by a sauce that forgot to bring oomph, so the classics are back in front.
    Dessert is lemon meringue pie, and the orthodox version does not do justice to a restaurant where the pastry department is, wait for it, legendary. The meringue was having a bad day. On the other side, the meringue is the tart shell and oozes delicious lemon curd. Refreshingly different and it ties the scores.
    It’s great to see restaurants unafraid to push the envelope, challenge status quo and experiment. Molecular gastronomy is here to stay and this is a great menu from one of Chennai’s finest, with great techniques and textures on display. Yes, there are things that need tweaking, but the overall experience was great. Head over there and do try the Lobster Bisque. We plan to, again.

    Rs 1,500++ per person. Details: 42676000

    —Amardeep Devadason

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