Jewellery designer Ratika Kaul Haksar’s eponymous label launches its Diwali collection and follows no theme for a change. Though her previous collection of exclusive earrings was called Istanbul and featured strong Turkish and Mughal influences, this time the stylist admits, “A theme can sometimes be restrictive.” The designer further adds that this gives her the creative freedom to mix and match varied styles and patterns like the thick, gold Rajasthani band, Hansli, with a knot whose roots lie in Celtic jewellery. “When I put pencil to paper, the first thing I draw is a flower. I just tend to naturally gravitate towards them. Daisy and orchids are my favourites in fact, and this collection features sunflowers as well,” says Haksar explaining the title of this collection, Flowerlace that features necklaces exclusively set in gold.
It is a first for an entire collection to be dedicated to necklaces, and the wife of celebrated photographer Sharad Haksar says, “Necklaces have entered the fashion scene again. To make them more appealing to a larger section of buyers, I wanted my designs to encompass different styles. Chunky tribal jewellery; delicate and intricate neck pieces; chokers — the collection has something for everyone.” While there is a pendant inspired from chand balis with rubies adding colour to the design, next to it is another intricate piece with flower motifs, studded with sapphire, turquoise, emeralds and diamonds.
It has taken six months to design the collection. Some pieces have taken more than two months while others were done in a week. After the design comes the part where she works with artisans to achieve balance and design for each piece, something she firmly believes in. Citing customers, artistes and even daily encounters as muses, the designer quips, “One of my customers is an English lady who is tall and slender and her build inspires me; another is a famous dancer whose movement I try to incorporate in my designs. Even girls twirling in skirts are inspiration for jhumkas.”
At Ratika’s Jewellery Shop, Teynampet. From `30,000 for onward. Details: 984026669
— Seema Rajpal