BOLLYWOOD princesses have long eschewed fine jewellery for contemporary expressions in alternative metal, fabric, wood, plastic and more. They embrace these styles on the red carpet, and designers like Suhani Pittie, Mrinalini Chandra, Nitya Arora and others are only growing bigger by the day. Their designs marry traditional, tribal and new age motifs and none of them is for the shrinking violet. When Pittie began many years ago with her beaten metal cuff and mother of pearl, little did she realise that brooches, collars and now, body harnesses and shoulder cuffs would be highly coveted. The Hyderabad-based designer is showcasing her Winter Festive 2014 line, Found. And Lost, at Evoluzione, featuring everything from hairpins to ear buttons, necklaces and rings. German silver, brass and copper, acrylic and pearl have been used, and the techniques range from minakari and Indian repousse to lacework. She tells us why the material she chooses is ‘the epilogue’ of her story:
Alternative metal and the new age bride: The Indian bride has undergone a metamorphosis. She is a part of the smallest to the biggest decisions, which include her jewellery and wedding wardrobe. Women want to express themselves now. I work with a lot of brides who want to adopt the philosophy of storytelling in their jewels.
Unconventional jewellery like body harnesses: The idea is to not create or wear an ornament deliberately to make a statement. Sometimes, unconventional ornaments allow us to express our courage and maybe by way of their construction, our vulnerability and fragility.
Materials and techniques in Found. And Lost: I work with anything that catches my fancy, from wood to silver, copper, brass, thermocol, bakelite, lucite, perspex and wire. You name it, and I’ve experimented with it. I just like to use whatever I think will convey my emotion for that time. The material for me is not a matter of convenience, it is the epilogue of my story.
Working with natural, untreated stones: I am a huge fan of alexandrite and tourmaline. But I barely use stones in my work. Metal is my first love.
At Evoluzione, today and tomorrow. Pricing from Rs 3,500. Details: 28333627