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    DONERKABAB20The Turkish kebab comes to the city — in chicken and beef  variants. Plus, there are churros and garlic butter prawns.

    THE plan was to blitz through Döner Kebab Bistro. The plan, of course, went down in a blaze of glory, amid platters of churros, beef done three ways, and a horseradish mayo that seared through my friend’s blocked sinuses, leaving her to gasp, “I can breathe again!”
    Let me start again. We thought that as doner kebabs are street food, we’d be dealing with a takeout situation. The bistro side of things, we missed. Turns out Döner Kebab Bistro on Anderson Road, a fledgling chain-op, does both, and quite well going by our experience. Set to fully launch on March 15 (two weeks before Naveen Radha, one of the two partners, ties the know with chef Suchita Venkat ), the joint is already open for business. The space is cosy (by which I mean it is not large) with unpretentious-but-tasteful decor and cool music. Open from 11 am to 11 pm and soon, hopefully, till 3 am for takeout, the menu features both the namesake doner kebabs as well as some interesting sit-down food.
    DONERKABAB36Straight to the point
    We skip the soups and salads, and start with the onion rings that come with the afore-mentioned horseradish mayo. We hear the sizzle of the rings being made, a pleasant change from just watching people cook behind glass walls. The rings are homey, the onion a single strand that needs conscious biting so it doesn’t end up dangling independent of its crust. The arancini (stuffed rice balls) are brought to life by a pesto aioli. So far, a little pub-foodish. The garlic butter prawns, however, are on another level. Juicy globules on mint pea puree with pickled radish, each element complements the other perfectly. The Moroccan lamb meatballs are similarly delightful. We are fed a spinach mushroom stuffed tenderloin on chimichurri, glazed carrots and jus that comes together beautifully.
    Here it comesDONERKABAB28
    Finally, the ‘takeout’ arrives: chicken and beef doner kebab (German style) with (perfect) fries. The chicken is spicy and moist, but it is drowned by the mayo. The beef is tangy and flavourful, all the condiments in balance. I eat more of it than I should. The beef is showcased again in an enormous but fabulously juicy burger, but I’m too stuffed to enjoy it. Churros with milk chocolate and dulce le leche sauces complete the meal. Another sweet must-try is the vanilla butter biscuit milkshake.

    Meal for two approximately at Rs 1,000-Rs 1,500 (without taxes). Details: 45018008

    —Ranjitha Gunasekaran

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