The Savera ropes in chef Jugesh Arora to reinvent Minar as a destination for traditional North Indian fare
When a chef tells you, the murgh makhani will be prepared without butter, it’s hard not to wonder if you’re in the middle of a dietary intervention. “People think makhani means you need to use butter. But it actually means silky,” Chef Jugesh Arora tells me. So maybe this isn’t an intervention. But the chef’s new project, Curry Town at The Savera, that replaces Minar, could certainly be described as a healthy return to traditional recipes of North India made the old-fashioned way. Curry Town features key dishes from northern parts of the country such as Rajasthan, UP, Delhi and undivided Punjab in a combination of street food and ‘ghar ka khana’ (recipes for which come from Arora’s wife Deepa).
“No food colours, no preservatives, no butter or cream. You will not feel heavy after eating a meal here,” he assures me. And he’s right. We start with kebabs: the murgh tikka Chandni Chowk (RS.485) is tasty, though my portion is not as tender as my companion’s, the bhatti ka murgh (RS.485) and rajma tikka are fine (RS.375) but it’s the tender, spicy bhuttey ka kebab (Rs.350) with a hint of sweetness that knock our socks off. The sweet and spicy ambi paani (Rs.200) we sip between courses is a gift to the parched. Of the main course, the murgh makhani (RS.485), rajma (RS.345) and kadi pakoda (RS.345) stand out the most. The makhani is characteristically red, slightly sweet and creamy (from being strained multiple times), and, as promised, ‘light’. The rajma is simplicity at its best. The Lahori mutton biryani (RS.585) is a must-try. For dessert, we strongly recommend the divine rabri angoor (Rs.240). Curry Town is open for dinner. Details: 28114700
— Ranjitha Gunasekaran