What to expect as six gen next designers showcase their collections at Lakme Fashion Week. Plus, seasoned designers share themes and inspirations
Every season of Lakme Fashion Week has Gen Next, a platform for new, upcoming designers to showcase their work. And over the years they’ve churned out great talents like Nachiket Barve, Kallol Datta, Jayesh Sachdev and Nikhil Thampi. Newbies who will be showcasing their collections at LFW Winter/Festive 2014 (August 20-24), tell us what’s on their mood board.
1. Anuj Bhutani, Delhi
Bhutani, 25, aims to wow the crowds with “contemporary, comfortable and tailored menswear, inspired by the Teddy boys movement, a part of the 60’s English sub culture.” The youngster plans to incorporate elements like zippers, twisted yarn, geometric thread and graphic prints into his outfits. Bhutani has worked with designer Ruchika Sachdeva on her label, Bodice. “Outfits on my collection have a relaxed, straight fit,” he says, about his bomber jackets, suits with zipped jackets and shirts. His statement? A light trench coat.
2. Arunima Majhi, Mumbai
Arunima Majhi, a NIFT graduate, worked for fashion brand 109°F and quit after a few months to start her own label, Maijka. While Maijka is about Indian textiles, Arunima Majhi is Western. “At Lakme, I will showcasing Arunima Majhi, which will see use of matte satin,” Majhi says. Look for motifs of carnivorous plants printed on outfits – like the venus flytrap, the pitcher plant and sarracenia. Colours used are bottle, off white and blue. Majhi, who admires works of designers like Christopher Kane, Kallol Datta and Alexander McQueen, says an ombre dress, where crop top meets skirt, is the highlight of her collection.
3. Dhruv Kapoor, Haryana
Kapoor, who studied fashion in Milan, specialised in womenswear. He is experimenting with bonded fabric, by fusing thin knit fabric with foam for this collection. Kapoor wants to portray his woman in a powerful light and that explains the theme for the collection – soft aggression. “An erupting volcano will be a main motif,” he adds. The silhouette will be relaxed, yet structured. “A lot of outfits will be longer, slightly oversized,’ Kapoor reveals, and fabrics range from lambskin to fur.
4. Surbhi Shekhar, Delhi
Shekhar, a NIFT graduate, has worked with Eleven Eleven and British brand Nigel Preston & Knight. Her fashion week collection is inspired by folklore and music by Fever Ray, the lead singer of the band, Knife. She says the collection will be “dark, magical, mysterious and dramatic; almost every piece will have a drape.’’ The collection that will comprise of skirts dresses, shirts and jackets will see fabrics like suede, wool, silk and chiffon in chilli red and navy blue. Don’t miss her grey tunic with ties.
5. Neha Agarwal,Mumbai
A London College of Fashion alumnus, Agarwal has worked with Manish Malhotra. She aims to be distinctive and not commercial. “This collection is inspired by the Mursi tribe of Ethiopia,” Agarwal says, adding that the theme is grunge. Expect leather and suede. “I’ve also used leather for embroidery and hand-textured organza,’ Agarwal adds. She recommends a dramatic short dress with leather texturing and an organza skirt.
6. Kristy De Cunha, Mumbai
The stylist and designer has clients like Sophie Choudhary, Chitrangdha Singh and Ravinder Bhogal. She labels her collection as bold and for women who are comfortable about their sexuality. Having chosen Frida Kahlo as her inspiration, her collection is named La Casa Azul (the blue house). “That is because Frida spent a lot of her time at her home, known as the Blue House,” Cunha explains. Expect rose motifs and Frida in the nude, possibly her signature motif, voluminous skirts and dresses. She favours an outfit called La Casa.
From August 20 to 24 at the Palladium Hotel in Mumbai. Details: lakmefashionweek.co.in
Our young queen of prints, Masaba, and the futuristic Amit Aggarwal will open the five-day extravaganza, which begins on Wednesday. Aggarwal will treat couture dresses with menswear detail and play with weaving techniques and tribal accents. India Modern plays a role once again, with designers like Anita Dongre looking to her fictional muse, Nayantara, the Jaipur Bride. Expect raw silk, traditional techniques and jewel tones. Meanwhile,
Anavila Misra, who previewed her Mohenjo Daro last month, with muse and actress Konkona Sen Sharma, has indigo patterned saris in linen and silk, with thread work and Indus motifs. As for our red carpet expert, Rocky S, he promises embellished gowns channeling 40s glamour. His Rocky Star will feature ‘‘32 sophisticated floor-length gowns’’ with surface texturing. Having impressed Chennai recently with his resort line at a local fashion week, Rocky says the Winter/Festive line will be in stores by the end of the month.