Small plates grow
up and cocktails
turn ultra crafty
with Fatty Bao’s
None of Manu Chandra’s culinary tricks are really new but he throws them together in ways that are fun, energising and pretty much mood altering as we discovered when we stopped by for a look-see at his new menu. Diving enthu
siastically into a free wheeling, small plate format that did not limit us to the appetiser-main course template seemed the sensible way to go.
First off, little bites of sushi and dumplings came down the runway. Crunchy and delicate meats and veggies — asparagus, pumpkin, radish, salmon, chicken, shrimp, wild mushrooms and spinach, hit the palate as they slipped out of their casing. Plus slivers of lamb in oyster sauce, silky tofu and spring onions. We washed them down with
a host of new cocktails that blended vodkas with everything from curry leaves to fresh juices and tea infusions resulting in more hits than misses. We particularly enjoyed Life’s Peachy (Absolut Mandarin, gin, peach, lime and Martini Rosso)
and Green Kimono (Absolut Pepper, fresh pineapple, blended with curry leaves and lemon grass) – both not too sweet nor too weird. We made a mental note to return for the rest of the tempting choices on the menu.
The pillowy baos, either filled with succulent eggplant with a hit of miso or morsels of chicken, did the trick. The salads were definitely worth a try as well. We especially enjoyed the chilli beef with the nutty textured soba noodles. But don’t miss the stir-fried pork neck — a natural winner. Round off the meal with something from the new dessert platter. In this case, Green Tea Chiffon Cake, Lemon Grass Creme Brulee, Japanese Cheese Cake, perfectly executed even if you don’t have much of a sweet tooth.
`2,400++. At 12th Main, Indiranagar. Details: 49652983
— Jackie Pinto