It’s a sign of good things to come, as Fashion Design Council of India prepares to host its first menswear show at the upcoming Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2016 next week. Joining in are three talented designers — Divyam Mehta, Ujjawal Dubey and Rohit Kamra. While it’s the second time for Mehta (he’s showcasing his new ‘Into the Woods’ collection), both Dubey and Kamra are debuting at this grand show. Here’s a look at what the two have up their sleeve.
Text: Barkha Kumari
There’s been no looking back for Dubey since his debut at the Lakme Fashion Week in 2014. Touted as one of the fashion designers to watch out for, his designs are known to celebrate individuality, and that’s what Dubey, from Gorakhpur, intends to focus on at the upcoming show. His new collection ‘The Red in Us’ is bold, and experimental, and highlights the various emotions the colour represents. The NIFT graduate explains, “The collection defines someone who is full of confidence, is content, and yet carries a sense of madness with him. This madness comes out once in a while, and elements of red used represent that vent.” Blues, beiges, and hints of white have also been used.
The 16 pieces that will be featured are designed on fabrics such as lightweight khadi, cotton silk, pure cotton, cotton satin, and moss cotton. “Red plays out differently in each of these fabrics,” he adds. Models will be seen wearing layered kurtas, long jackets, and dhoti-skirts. “I have kept the drapes straight, subtle, and clean. Cuts involve low necklines, and long silhouettes. You will find jackets that are slit open in the middle of the chest area. I have also reinterpreted the classic dhoti by keeping their backs straight and simple, and the front like a drape,” he says.
Jaipur designer Rohit Kamra’s fascination with royalty needs little reasoning. The fashion designer, who once harboured the dream to become an actor, has made a career out of making classical bandhgalas, and breeches appealing to the younger generations. Kamra continues his story with ‘Made in Jaypore’ line, which will feature his signatures — slim fit breeches, open bandhgala blazers, and Jodhpuri blazers. And what’s really important to note is his attention to detail. “I have used gun metal detailing and leather cording on the clothes. For some of the motifs, I have taken inspiration from detailing on cowboy boots found in Tennessee, US. I am also using khadi wool, found only in Bikaner and Jaisalmer,” says Kamra.
While his previous collections have been more ceremonial, this one has an international colour palette. “I have used more blacks, whites, and greys, with sea green and mustard yellow as highlighters. But the cuts and silhouettes remain Indian. I want to take the brand of Jaipur to US and Europe,” says Kamra who has also designed accessories to go with the look. And for the first time, he’s even worked on a footwear range — monk style shoes, done in two tones (such as green and beige), and woven leather.
On March 18 (Day 3 of AIFW ).At New Delhi