Nimish Bhatia’s new restaurant Nimisserie introduces ‘aspect cuisine’ to the city
ChefNimish Bhatia’s new restaurant Nimisserie falls under the category of ‘aspect cuisine’. Since that term is completely unknown to me, not that he didn’t try explaining, let’s just make it simple and call it ‘modern Indian’ food. According to Bhatia, the food here is an amalgamation of imaginations, and ingredients. And the menu is proof of that.
Food for thought
The meal begins with an amuse bouche — guava and pomegranate juice bubbles, with a hint of masala
such as jeera, served atop a papdi — to resemble a papdi chaat. It’s quite a tasty way to begin the meal. Next came the reconstructed chilled samosa made with slivers of melon that wraps around the usual samosa filling (only cold), some greens, and served with chutney on the side in case you want it.
The smoked chicken breast and arugula salad is a pretty appetiser. Thin slices of smoked chicken breast, greens, marigold flowers, dehydrated pineapple, and charmagaz (almonds, pumpkin, cantaloupe and watermelon seeds) come in a lovely cocktail bowl, and you add the vinaigrette dressing that’s served separately.
The Nakhlawi galauti — Bhatia’s version of the galauti kebab served in a cream horn shell — is a neat looking dish. But it was main course that made me happy. The ‘fishy affair’, has red snapper grilled with kasundi (mustard sauce), tuna with gooseberry chutney on top, and seer with curry leaf pesto. Each of the fish brings a distinct flavour to the plate, and that is what I enjoyed the most. It was served with duck, and apricot and chilli baby naans, but I am not too sure if the fish and the naan pairs well.
The last touch
For dessert, the misthi doi crème brûlée served in a butter cookie tart shell is probably the most elaborate dish — visually that is — because not only do you get to eat the dessert, you also get to stare at a hand-pulled mini rickshaw that comes with it. However, I would have liked it if the sweet yoghurt had set better.
If the a la carte menu confuses you, put yourself in the hands of the chef, and pick one of their tasting menus. Sometimes, it’s less tiring to go with the flow.
Nimisserie has about 157 covers. It’s a massive restaurant, spread across two floors, and dressed to the hilt — handmade marble plates on the tables, red beaded drapes to segregate the private dining sections, bright white chairs, and even brighter lights — you could very well be in the dining room of a royal household. The restaurant is only about a week old, and it has a distance to go before it can make its own space in the city, but till then, happy instagramming. Take it from us, you will be tempted!
Rs2500 onwards (a la carte, for two). At 120, Brigade Road.
— Priyadarshini Nandy